I speak of repair of the hardware, not the industry. A while back our brand spanking new Philips 27″ television mysteriously began denying that it had any knowledge of electricity. Our GE died after 12 years, so we expected the Philips to last a bit longer than four months. So, we called Philips regarding the situation, and, so sorry, we only cover labor for 90 days, feel free to take it to Stanton TV in Danbury, CT, for repair.
The unit has two components: the CRT and the circuit board. It’s simply a solid-state, single-purpose computing device attached to various means of I/O. It took longer to unscrew the back than it does to remove the board and swap it. But, after arguing the point with “Support,” it appears Policy prevents them from sending me the part. I might shock myself, after all. (Maybe I shouldn’t mention the Macintosh SE/30 lying disassembled on the floor of the basement.)
So we took it in. It’ll be $75 for the labor, they say.
Time passes.
“What’s taking so long?” I ask. “We’re waiting for parts.”
Time passes.
“Well?” “We’re troubleshooting the problem.”
Time passes.
“And?” “We’re waiting for parts; they should be here by the end of the week.”
Time passes.
“Oh?” “We’re troubleshooting the problem.”
Right.
They called today to tell us that it’s ready. If they think we’re paying for four weeks of labor, they have another think coming. I can pick up a Bigger, Better, More Feature-Rich Boob Tube at Wal*Mart for under $300. Why would I pay to have this one repaired?
Why doesn’t Philips do as Dell does, and send a guy to swap parts? Or, like IBM, just send the part?
same deal my 27pt4661 would not turn on. I have owned it for under a year. thanks to this website I replaced the 4amp fuse and it works again.
Roger: Where can I get a varistor of the proper value of which you refer to for the 27PT ?
I believe it has been posted above but i will list it here
fuse part#242208610914 cost is $12.38 note: this is a speacial time delay fuse and is a safety part.
varistor/thermistor, board ref # 3523, when replacing part install into board ref#3507, it is alsmost at the same location as 3523.
part# 212266300019 cost is $8.58
You can order parts from http://www.tritronicsinc.com or http://www.vancebaldwin.com
p.s In case I wasn’t clear you must remove the old part 3523 from board
Our 27″ Phillips Model # 27Pt543S37A has the same problem no picture.
I want to know what hand tool will remove the screws to get at the blown
fuse. It looks like a Hex screw. Do I need a metric tool ? I too am a bit
angered but I will E-Mail every one I know and ask them to foward it to all
their friends and so on maybe Phillips will take notice. Remember the
word of E-mail is powerful. I will also Contact Consumer Affairs and the
Better Business Bureau.
So I paid to have my Phillips repaired at a cost of $205. Less than 2 months later the power unit failed again! Obviously, these sets are just biding their time until someone hauls them to a landfill! I hate waste but can see no other solution!
I have filed a complaint with the Attorney Generals office. Not that I expect any sort of compensation from Phillips—- Let’s face it- I couldn’t get them to return a phone call!!
Hope the rest of you fair better.
PS did you know that Costco is now selling the 32 inch model! Beware!
So – my 27PT is 10 months old – no problems and working fine until this today. Around 3 am I wake to these weird sounds. Stumbling into my living room, baseball bat at the ready, I find that my TV has turned itself on and is flipping through all its channels. It would not turn off. Shades of Poltergeist. The remote did not work, manual turn off worked briefly but once off it would immediately come back on and eerily move through all the channels all over again while the green light blinked frantically. Freaked, I unplugged the thing and went back to bed, locking the bedroom door behind me. Phillips (called later in the morning) had no idea as to the nature of the problem or what my warranty would be – but they wanted me to fax my proof of purchase in Monday and they would contact me “in a couple of days.” I live in hope…..So – has anyone ever had or heard of this problem? Would the fuse or the kit work with this problem or should I call a repairman and an exorcist – and resign myself to spending money???
Vicki, I would say forget the fuse (if that blew, you’d have no picture, no power, no polgergeist).
I would suggest calling a young priest and an old priest. And then getting the hell out of there.
Same problem for us, 32PT5441/37 no power and the LED is flashing. I sent the link to this website to Philips customer service – we will see if they even address the fact that there are 200+ posts on this site dealing with this issue. In the meantime, I will try changing the fuse. thanks for the helpful information!
I have a Philips 26pw6341/37. Thanks to this website I finally got around to ordering and installing the kit (the tiny SMD FET was a pain). Fuse was good and not the problem. My problem is that I unplugged most of the wire connectors so I could get the board out and work on it but I don’t remember which connectors go where. Some are obvious to where they go. I knew I should have marked the wire connectors before I started pulling them out. I searched and searched everywhere on the web for a diagram or picture of the board for this tv with no luck. I’m dying to plug it in so I could see if it works or to see if I am going to use it as a BBQ pit. All I need is at least a picture of the board or number to number of the connectors so I can plug the rest of the connectors back into their right place. If anyone can help out I’d really appreciate it. Rick8325@verizon.net
Thank You,
Rick
I have a little different 27PT6441/37 story. Our TV is our basement family room recently died. The dump in our town has a place to leave old TVs. When I went to leave our old TV I saw a 27PT6441/37 sitting there. Compared to the rest of the old and battered TVs getting ready to join the dump pile, the 27PT6441/37 looked pristine. I had to take it home to see if I could get it going. Thanks to the posts on this site, I tried the fuse replacement and it worked. It was really easy and took 5 minutes. The TV works so well that I actually took it out of the basement and into our upstairs living room. After reading all of the stories on this and other sites, it’s pathetic the way that Philips treated their customers on this issue. They should have done some type of recall to replace the fuses. Instead, they have alienated their customers and there are perfectly good TVs (that people paid good money for) sitting in dumps all over the world. Even though I got the TV to work and love having it, I won’t shell out my hard earned money on a new Philips for fear of having a similar problem.
My 27PT6441/37 also succumbed to the evil Philips empire. Mine died after 21 months and is a dinosaur compared to some of the other tubes that died an infant. Last Monday, August 7th I went to turn the tube on and it was a no go. I tried different outlets and unplugged the unit for awhile. I called Philips customer service and got the old “did you try different outlets and unplugging it” response. They referred me to an “authorized Philips repair center”. So I called up the repair center and explained to them my situation and what kinda TV I had. The person there started laughing when I said that the TV’s picture tube was still under warranty. I think she was laughing cause she knew I was another suckered customer. They quoted me a price of $30 to diagnose the problem. They stated it was probably a power supply that could cost $100-$300. So I dropped off my TV to the “philips authorized repair center” on August 11 and they said it would be probably a week til they got a chance to look at it. Well on Saturday I got curious and found this site and others where people were reporting the early deaths of so many of the same model 27PT6441/37. After learning how easy a fix it was I decided to hurry to the tube shop er I mean “Philips authorized repair center” before they could take a look at it and quote some outrageous repair cost. I told the repair guy about so many people having this same problem. His response was “if you jack around with it enough you might make the problem worse”. He didn’t even offer to replace the fuse for me or the thermistor. Well he did refund my $30 diagnosis fee, so I was just happy to get the hell outa there with my TV and my $30. I took the 9 screws and cover off and found what looked like a good fuse. I went to Radio Shack and bought a 4 pack of 4 amp 240 volt fuses. As soon as I put in the new fuse and plugged it in the TV made the proverbial power on noise. I had to hit the power button a second time and voila a perfect picture. The thing has worked ever since. What an easy fix. When the TV works its good. I like the picture and sound. However, I will never buy another product from Philips again. There customer service and uncaring attitude sucks. They should be willing to admit the problem and either recall the 27PT6441/37 or send out replacement fuses with instructions. They could go one step further and have these TVS fixed at there service centers on the house. I am still gonna file a BBB complaint and will be willing to volunteer any info for a class action lawsuit. It’s disgraceful that I paid $2.99 to fix this thing when who knows how many people have paid hundreds of dollars for this issue or took the behemoth of a beast TV and dumped it at there local landfill.
Well guys, I had the same problem all of you have experienced, except that Philips was very helpful for me (at least so far). I called the customer support line found on their website, talked to a guy for about 5 minutes and he gave me the number to a local repair shop. I live in Bozeman, MT so don’t think you live in too small of a town for this to happen. Anyways, I called the repair shop and they are going to come out and repair the TV for free. One possible difference though is that my LED blinks 5 times and then 1 long blink. I tried replacing the fuse and that didn’t make any difference at all. Philips has been very nice and helpful so far. I’ll try to give an update as this ordeal progresses.
That said, it is pretty rediculous that it needs a repair after such a short period of time.
Same problem as all the other folks here. My Philips 27PT6441/27 died at about 20 months. Followed the advice found here (and on a few other forums) and changed the fuse. The set powers on no problem, but now the remote control does not work (I also note that the green light that usually lit up when the set was on is no longer doing so). I know it’s not the remote control b/c it works fine with my old Magnavox 25″ set (which, btw, is nearly 15 years old and still working like a charm). Anyone have this same problem or have any good advice? Thanks in advance.
I have a philips 34pw9817 and it works fine for a while then it makes a pop sound and goes out. the red light is flashing . I have to unplug it for a while and then it will work again. does anyone else have this problem and would the fuse fix work for me, and would it be the same size fuse?
Looks like I am the latest in a long line. I just graduated from college, got a good job, got an apartment, and I thought what better to put in it than a nice flat screen tv. I have a deal with Philips and they seemed to have good products, so I ordered the 42PF9730A/37 42” HD LCD. I moved in on Friday and after having the wrong size wall mount, I put the tv on its stand on our table and turned it on. Probably 20 minutes later, it turns off and the red light starts blinking. I got it back on but the problem quickly resurfaced. Called their horrible technical support who gave me 2 numbers, it was 11 o’clock on Saturday morning but one number kept ringing while the other put me on hold and after 20 minutes, no one answered. Hopefully they will pick up on Tuesday and come fix my tv, but this has been an awful experience. What can be done about this? I hope it can be fixed and then last. Has anyone had the problem fixed only to have it resurface quickly?
Okay, please someone help. I have a Magnavox 60″ projector T.V. I turn it on and I hear only a click. The “green” indicator stays on, but nothing happens. I turn it off and back on several times. Eventually, I hear sound and a small discolored picture appears. The sound is clear, but the picture is small. After warming up, the picture gets bigger and eventually clears up. Then all is well, till I have to turn it off and start over each time I turn it on. It is getting worse. Any suggestions out there????
Thanks for anything you can do….
Bee
I have a Philips Magnavox 60 inch Model 9P6031C. My problem with it is that when I power it on, I hear only a click. The green LED light stays on but nothing more happens. I turn the T.V. off and on several times and eventually I will hear the sounds from the current channel. The T.V. will now stay on, however, the picture is small and “ghost” appearance. Like a negative. The small picture gets larger as the T.V. warms up, but it goes from large to small and continues this. It is getting worse, as to turn the T.V. on now, I must turn the off/on switch about 30 times before it stops popping and I can keep the sound on.
HELP!!!!!!!!! And thanks for any advice you can give.
I also have a phillips 34pw9817. Depending on its mood it works fine for 30 minutes to a couple of hours. Then it will sht off – the litlle led light in the front blinks red. SOMETIMES I can just unplug it and plug it back in and it will work. Sometimes I have to wait a few minutes. I could also use some advice.
Thanks
I bought a refurbished 27PT6441 from Philips outlet one month ago. The TV died yesterday.
The TV is under warranty so I will get it fixed. What I don’t understand is that this TV is clearly defective as it had been returned by someone once (based on the serial number being blacked out). Why did Philips sell the TV to me again? Did they think the TV will last more than 3 months so it would be out of warranty?
I wish I could just return the TV.
I have a 50P8341. The power light on the front will blink four times and the repeat. The set will not come on. The light just blinks four times and then keeps repeating. You have to unplug the set to get it to stop blinking, Can anyone help!!!!!!!
Well it’s nice to have stubled upon this site while looking for a solution to my problem. Last Feb I bought the Philips 30PW9100D/37 it worked fine til about june. When turning it on it made a pop sound then turned off. Upon trying to turn it on again all I get is a clicking noise.
My hope is that is also a fuse problem that can be fixed without me paying $100. IF any one can give me specific advice for my model that would be great. I think I’ll be opening it up to take a look at it tomorrow though.
-Curt
I too have experienced this same problem, and judging by the number of responses here, this isn’t a fluke problem, it is happening to everyone at some point with this set. There is something wrong with the tv on their end and it is time that they heard about it. I want to ask you all to file a complaint at http://www.bbb.org . Maybe this will help, maybe not, but the more of us there are out there telling them that we will never buy their products again, the better chance that A. they will rectify the problem or B. people will listen and stop purchasing their products. I would also encourage you to file a BBB complaint with the store that sold you the tv. I know it isn’t their fault and not much they can do for you, however they can decide as a company not to carry philips products.
Thank you for your help and cooperation,
Justin
My son-in-law had the blinking LED issue and no picture or sound on his Philips 32PT6441/37. I don’t think it was a year old. Based on this site’s information, I bought the suggested kit and decided to fix it myself, although I hadn’t touched a soldering iron in 35 years. The kit came with the transistor, an assortment of resistors, and a driver transformer. I needed a magnifying glass to find the transistor and in fact at one point I thought it wasn’t in the kit to begin with. I found it in a static bag within a crease where they had folded it up. But that was just the packaging for the transistor. That thing is really quite small and you need to be very careful that it doesn’t disappear on you, which it did and caused me a scare for a few minutes.
There were a couple of things with the installation notes that took me awhile to figure out such as which resistor to use with his set. In my case, the 8R2-3414 was the one I needed. I did find a web site with the color codes which helped and another site to explain the 8R2 designation. 8R2 stands for 8.2 ohms. The number 8 is a grey band and the 2 is a red band. The other resistor I needed was 1K2-3239. 1K2 stands for 1.2k or 1200 ohms. The number 1 is brown band.
My son-in-law helped me put the TV face down on the carpet. My goodness that thing is heavy. He then went back to working on the kitchen flooring. Once all the screws were out, the cabinet just lifted right off what little chassis was there.
I started looking for the components and they are identified by the item number on the main board. All the components are found on the main board, by the way. I though that it would be a nightmare finding them all. I found the transformer and the 3414 resistor pretty easily. The transformer looked as though it had been cooked. The others I couldn’t find at all. As I was sitting there puzzling this out I realized that the location code was really a grid coordinate used like a map. One side of the board is numbered and the other use alphabetic characters. Once I figured that out it was easy to find the transistor and other resistor.
It took me a half hour to get that darn transistor soldered in as it was so small and I lost it once during the process.
I buttoned it back up and plugged it in. Great picture no sound. Darn it. I
took the cabinet back off and found a connector I had forgotten to plug back in. Put it back together and it works like new.
I recommend that you purchase a vacuum solder removal tool and have a soldering iron with a very pointy tip. It works better on the transistor installation. I also propped the board bottomside up in a horizontal position so that the transistor would lay flat while I was working on it. The board came out pretty easily after I removed the silicone glue locking it in on one fastener. Make a diagram of the connectors you remove.
Thanks for knowledge….
James
Here’s an update on my situation so that everyone can see just how much Philips actually cares about its customers. I filed a complaint with the BBB to try to get Philips to either pay for the repair on my TV, or issue a recall on the defective product…their response wasn’t exactly helpful. Here is part of the letter that I got.
“After thorough review of this matter, we have determined that the consumer’s television is outside of the warranty time frame, and due to that fact, Philips is unable to offer any assistance with this matter.
We do regret that the consumer has encountered this problematic situation. Please be assured that we share the consumer’s concerns, but at this time, we are beyond any time frame allowing us to become more involved in the matter. We do, however, appreciate your patience and thank you for bringing this situation to our attention. ”
So basically, they are putting out garbage that expires shortly after the warranty, but hey, who expects a tv to last more than 12 months anyways?
I bought the 32pt5441 16 months ago and today it suddenly gave me a black screen with about 15-20 horizontal white lines on it. Turned it off and turned it back on and same thing. Turned it off for a few minutes and now it again seems to be working but it randomly does some weird stuff like a sub-portion of the picture becomes blurry. I guess its starting to die. I guess I need to find some way to get rid of this big piece of crap.
Im never buying a Phillips product ever. I hope everyone who is planning on buying a Phillips product reads this blog before getting one.
I also have a 27 inch flat screen 27PT6441/37 from Philips, purchased Christmas of 2004. I guess we are the luckiest so far for lasting 2 years, and that is still unacceptable!! We have a Sanyo 31″ in our living room for so far 10 years, and we purchased the Phillips flat screen for our son for Christmas. I found this site by actually looking for the amp rating of the T4E 250V which seems to be the problem. I am going to purchase the fuse tomorrow. I will let you know how we made out!!!
Done with Phillips
Even if the fuse fixes the problem.
Done
Back again with an update on my 27PT6441/37.
I replaced the T4E 250V fuse with a T4A 250V (Time Delay) yesterday morning and the TV is still working. Guess we will see how long it will last.
No More Phillips!!
No More Phillips!!
No More Phillips!!
I just want to thank everyone for their help with the philips 27pt6441/27. My husband and I came home to a dead TV two nights ago. I found this site and was able to pick up fuses yesterday and the TV was working within 10 mins. From what I have read, we are lucky – we got 15 months out of our TV. Dont know how long this will last but there are still 3 other fuses left.
NEVER AGAIN WILL I BUY PHILIPS/MAGNAVOX.
Thanks again to everyone who posted and the detailed information.
Like the guy above me (Paul), I, too, purchased my TV in Dec 2004 and consider myself one of the “lucky ones” to have gotten 2 years out of it, before this nightmare happened.
Ohhhhhhhh my god….if ONLY I’d have known about this website when I was considering the purchase of this TV. This thread, printed out on 59 pieces of paper, would have been my FIRST indication that Philips not only makes CRAP TV’s, but also won’t repair their CRAP TV’s either! What a shoddy company!
I am going to Radio Shack tomorrow (rather, later today) to buy a package of fuses. I hope like heck I don’t shock myself….fingers crossed! If I don’t kill myself, I’ll be back to let y’all know the outcome.
For the most part, I’ve read that it’s been THE fix to the no-power problem. Let’s hope I am just as lucky.
Anyone know about this class-action lawsuit everyone’s talking about early on in this thread? I want in on it. This IS consumer fraud!!!!
BOYCOTT PHILIPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Philips 27″ Real Flat piece of crap: $280 @ Best Buy 2 years ago.
Package of fuses: $2.99 + tax
Labor: Less than an hour, with the help of a friend willing to sacrifice himself instead of me, in case of fatal shock from picture tube.
Saving myself an arm and a leg in TV repair, thanks to THIS website: PRICELESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
well…I am a slow learner, not only did I purchase a Phillips flat screen at Best Buy but after a year, I went back and got the same one because the first one died. We purchased the extra warranty and the first time this thing so much as hiccups we will be at the store complaining, we still have the first one in the garage and we will try your idea of changing the fuse, wish us luck!
Bought a 26PW6341 (26″ Widescreen, non-HD) in August 04.
No picture and flashing LED as of Friday (five days ago).
Replaced fuse with 3AG, 250V, 5Amp near the power cable after opening the case with a torx-10 bit head (9 screws in all). Nothing. LED to continues to flash, no picture.
Called Philips, all they said was “Take it to a repair center.” They gave me the name of two repair centers in Indianapolis (where I live), neither of which would sell me the parts directly, but would charge at least $15 to diagnose it, then more to fix (and I have to take it in there).
I may buy the chassis repair kit from tritronicsinc.com, listed above, waiting to get advice from someone else. I will report back.
I am never buying Philips again.
What pisses me off about this fuse is the fact that mine did not blow; the core of the fuse is oxidized. To me that tells me that Phillips has made these fuses to fail just after the warranty expires so that people will have to spend the money for a new TV. The only problem is that the higher the humidity in the area that the TVs are being used the faster they fail. What they didn’t keep in mind is that people do not have to buy there products. I will find a suitable replacement for this fuse, I will use the TV longer than you want me to and I will simply give my money to other companies. You know I wonder how much effort it would take to get every one in America to stop buying defectively engineered products from a sucky company. I don’t think it will be too hard to do.
DHL has screwed me on the chassis kit which I ordered from Tritronics, so I doubt I will be repairing the system. Good luck to any of you who attempt this otherwise. The board is through-hole, so with a soldering iron and someone who has a little experience with circuits boards, it shouldn’t be too hard.
Finally received the kit from DHL, two days late (I paid extra for next day shipping).
Installed all the parts today with a relative of mine who happens to be a certified electronic technician; he has lots of experience on through-hole and surface mount boards. The transistor, part 7404 on my 26PW6341 TV, is very tricky to replace as it is surface mount. It’s very small and you have to be careful when handling and soldering it. I recommend getting someone who has worked with these things before.
We also replaced two resistors and the drive transformer. One of the transistors that came in the is a different resistance than the original on the board. Our assumption was that this was Philips’ attempt at “fixing” their previous mistake of using the wrong resistor.
Soldered everything up and put the case back on…nothing. Five quick blinks followed by one blink. No image on the screen.
So, I give up, and I wish luck to those of you who attempt this process. My advice is to not buy this type of Philips TV – I’ve decided to upgrade to a much better Samsung HDTV that I found on Ebay brand new.
Thanks to the coxesroost site for keeping this forum alive. I wager it has been a comforting source to all of us dealing with the inanity of Philips’ products.
I have had a 27PT6441 for about 2 1/2 years, so I guess I feel lucky that it lasted this long before dying. Replaced the fuse (4amp) from Radio Shack, and it works perfectly now. Thanks to everyone who posted.
I have the same model # 27PT6441/37 phillips P.O.S. 27″ T.V. but thanks to all the great comments on this site, this problem lasted less than two hours! I followed the instructions about removing 9 screws to take the cover off (thank god I knew that or that would have taken forever) and found the glass fuse right where everyone said it was, next to where the plug in cord attaches to the board. I replaced it with a 3.15 amp / 250 volt fuse (the Radio Shack diddnt have thw 4 amps) and plugged it in. I plugged in the T.V and right away it sounded like the fuse poped. I turned on the T.V for sh@*s and grins and the sucker worked!
I highly recommend that ANEYONE try this before spending all typs of money at a T.V. repair shop. If I can do it in less than 1 hour, YOU can too. I’m not a very handy person, lets just say that if you put a hammer in my hand, I’ll look for the plug. This repair costed me $2.99 and took a total of one hour to do (I needed some help moving the T.V. cause it is very heavy) Thank you all again for the great advise on this problem, you all saveed me a ton of time and money !!! THank you !
Ha, it’s really awesome to see regular folks learning about resistor color codes and soldering irons and such. Repairs of this type are relatively simple, but the high voltage is def. something to watch out for.
I’m about to replace the fuse on my 27PT6441, thought I’d hit up google first and see what I could find (I always do that before I actually start to repair something – sometimes you think you’ve got the problem licked only to find out via google that you were very far away from it), and wound up here.
I’d recommend to anyone about to open their television and do a repair that they check out http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/tvfaq.htm. That site helped me out a ton way back in the day. Good luck folks.
Laters…
Replaced the fuse with a 5 amp 250v and everything is peachy on mine as well. It even powered on quicker than it used to!
I’m currently looking for a new TV. Just marked all PHILLIPS of my list! Thanks!!!
Hi,
Another very dissatisfied owner of the 27pt6441. purchased 12/04. died 7/06. Paid $125 to repair it (not under warranty, of course). Just died again. Philips was NO help at all. I’ve filed a complaint with BBB and am pursuing a Class Action Lawsuit. If anyone else has already started the ball rolling, please feel free to contact me at: dianashappydays@crosslink.net
I’m an industrial electronics technician. I also own the Phillips 27PT6442/37 using a L041UAA chassis. I have never experienced any problems with this set until a few days ago (have had it for 2 years). The picture is displayed fully over the entire screen however the picture has now folded over on the top 4 inches from the top of the screen (vertical deflection problems). Does anyone know where I can get a schematic diagram for the chassis? I’ll troubleshoot it myself if I can get that very badly need roadmap (schematic diagram). Most places I have looked want a arm and a leg for the schematic or don’t have one. Thanks
gfbb@wildblue.net
I also have a Phillips 20″ model 20PT6441/37 that has vertical deflection problems. No stranger to electronics, I’m also looking for a schematic before diving in to repair it. If someone knows where to locate one, I would appriciate a reply. My set is about a year and a half old and has been plagued with small problems from the start. It still has audio problems. The bass and treble seem to switch themselves full on and off for no apparent reason. Very unhappy with Phillips. Reply to jrmcentire@comcast.net
I also have a Phillips 27″ model 20PT6442/37 and as everybody mine was working fine and then went off and never back on. I was shocked when i saw how many people have the same issue. I feel I am lucky cause mine went over two years before crashing, it is a nice looking TV, to good a price not to have defects.
I replaced the fuse as many explained, I can never thank you enough for daring to open it and explore and for sharing with all of us. Anybody with the same problem just buy fuse 4.0A 250V 5x20mm Slow-Blow Glass Fuse (4-Pack) #270-1066 at Radio Shack be sure about the measure, there is a bigger model with 4amp and 250v.
Thank you all again and don’t buy this model anyone thinking about it.
Model# 27PT6441/37
I was wondering if changing the 4.0 amp to a 5.0 amp will help/hurt this problem. I’m tired of changing my fuse every 2-3 months!!! Anyone have a bad experience with the 5 amp fuse??
I HAVE A 27PT6441-37 THAT I FOUND NEAR A DUMPSTER IT WAS IN PERFECT SHAPE. AFTER GETTING IT HOME I PLUGGED IT in AND GOT nothing… after spending two minutes to unscrew the cover i found a very empty space which shocked me for how heavy the thing was I popped the fuse out went to homedepot and now ive been enjoying my 4 dollar tv for about 5 months, from a electricians point of view take a chance its not that big of a deal dont touch the tall black thing or the wire that comes from it and plugs into the glass back part of your tv and make sure its unplugged and you wont have a repair guy laughing all the way to the bank
I read the WHOLE thread. But and the maximum tv size mentioned by people is 32″.
Does this same problem occurs in a 34″ crt hdtv as well?
I have philips 34PW9817 crt widescreen hdtv and recently it keep turning itself off by going to standby mode. Like after being on for 5 or 10 minutes it will turn off and the light infront of the power button will change from “green” to “red”. Than I have to wait for a hour before to turn it back on again. I think soon its gona be shut off permantly.
Is it because of fuse? Do these large 34″ inches widescreen tv even have fuses? like smaller tv?
Well, add me to the list. I bought the 27PT6441/37 in Oct, 2004. I guess I am somewhat “lucky” in that our’s didn’t decide to die on us until tonight. When I bought the TV I didn’t really want to pay the extra money ($60) for the extended warranty from Best Buy, but my dad went ahead and sprung for it for me. I’ve already contacted them and someone is actually coming out to take care of this. I definitely would not trust myself trying to replace the fuse everyone talks about, so I’ll leave it up to the “professionals”…or at least get the money’s worth on that warranty. I’m actually hoping though that this can’t be fixed or it happens 3 more times before my warranty is up, b/c after the 4th time Best Buy gives you credit for it, which I then would use to buy a Sony or Samsung! About 3 weeks leading up to this TV going out, we would get lots of static, almost like interference and I’m wondering if it is associated with this problem? I’m pretty sure it’s not the cable/cords/etc. since our other TV is now hooked to the same stuff as the Philips was and is fine. Should have know from the first time we turned it on (from the lound *bonk* noise it made, to the 10 seconds it would take to turn on) to the fact that Philips basically harassed us about buying their extended warranty before the original one was up (wonder why?!?!) that this would not end up good. This is actually our second one, as we took the first one back because of the noise it made when starting up, though since the second one did it too we figured they all did. Should have took it as a sign and moved on to a BETTER brand! I’ve been doing reasearch in hopes of getting a new TV here in a couple months if this keeps happening. I’ve definitely learned from my mistake on this one, as I sit here having to watch our little 19” mono TV…I’ll have to admit, the Philips is pretty good when it works!
We purchased a 37pf9631d/37 LCD tv in August 2006. It stopped working on its own. Unplugged and waited, replugged and same thing….power on LED turns Green for a second then is followed up with 6 red LED blinks. Does anyone know what this code means. Philips sent me to a Repair guy in Green Bay 50 miles away. Still in warranty though but I have no idea how long this is going to take. If anyone else is or has experienced this, please email me at mdjlibby@charter.net